I'll just come clean: Baths have never appealed to me. They're time-consuming, and now, with a toddler, just taking a peaceful three-minute shower is nigh impossible. So I was surprised that my favorite moment of a visit to Arkansas' Hot Springs National Park was soaking in a lavender-scented whirlpool tub, watching ceiling fans turn lazily in the hushed calm of a high-ceilinged, century-old bathhouse. It didn't hurt that I was luxuriating in thermal waters, which bubble up from dozens of underg